This is my trip report from my day of two wheeling in the dirt in Baja. I booked my tour with these guys - http://www.loscabosguide.com/bajaride/index.html.
When I booked the trip, the owner (Dean) asked me a lot of questions about my riding. I was very upfront – I am an experienced STREET rider that has never gone in the dirt. I asked him to treat me as a total novice and assumed I knew nothing. Later, I learned my candor about my dirt skills was much appreciated. It appears that it is common for someone to want the biggest bike he has and then proceed to drop it, dump it, run off of cliffs and all sorts of misadventures. Dean steered me to an old Honda 250. He did have a couple of 450’s but when I didn’t object to the lighter bike – we were set.
His company provided all the gear: boots, shin pads, hip pads, liver protector, pants, shirt, elbow pads, chest/back protector, gloves, helmet and goggles. They had a good assortment of sizes and all the gear was in tip top condition. After fitting me with all the gear, it was ready for our ride.
I asked who else we were waiting for – the answer was no one – we were ready to go as soon as I was ready. So I end up with a personal guide and riding coach off for my Baja adventure.
We rode through the paved streets in San Jose Cabo to get to the dirt paths. I used that time to get comfortable with the bike. It sat tall – probably a 32” seat height – so stopping was a tippy toe operation for me. Although underpowered based on what I am used to – I thought I was ready.
Our route was to work our way through a series of reserve areas to just south of Las Paz. From there, we would follow the Sea of Cortez coastline back to San Jose Cabo. The reserve part was a mix of hard dirt road, some hard gravel road, and the occasional patch of super soft sand. The first patch of soft sand I hit was going into a left handed turn. As I was “setting up for the turn” I wanted to scrub a little speed and flicked the front brakes. WHAT A MISTAKE! In the soft stuff, my front wheel just DIVED and I started to lose control of the bike. In a partial panic stop, I banged down to first and got on the rear brakes hard. I did manage to stop without dropping it – but it was close. So now I needed to start in a very fluffy sand – oops – that took a little getting used to. So – after killing it – and restarting – I finally get going. My guide realized I wasn’t behind him and came back to look for me. By then, I was back rolling and gave the thumbs up sign. I had also made a note to self – front brakes should NOT be used like that!
After about 10 miles of some really amazing scenery (and no other mishaps) I was starting to get the feel of riding in the dirt. I wasn’t quite up to drifting in the corners, but I was feeling like I was in far better control of the bike.
Baja is almost entirely a free range place – you can see all sorts of livestock roaming free. And for some reason, they like to be on dirt roads, bike trails and the like. We came upon a grouping of cattle – including several bulls. My guide crowded them a little while slowing. At just the right moment, he turned hard and wheelied spraying dirt and pebbles at the bulls. BIG MISTAKE! All that did was piss them off – and they started charging him. Now I was pretty sure I know the protocol if a bull is charging you from behind – ride faster than the bull. But what is the protocol when you are behind the bull? I didn’t know if I should speed up, slow down – what? I figured the bulls would tire of chasing him – but would they come after me? I got the giggles thinking of all the possibilities – and finally the bulls gave up the chase and moved off the road. Later at a water break, my guide admitted that was the first time that had happened to him (normally that scares them off into the brush).
The road during most of this was a one lane (if that) trail. Lots of bumps, some natural jumps, washboard – you name it – we had it. I was really starting to get comfortable in the saddle – occasionally wheelying off a berm or even catching a LITTLE bit of air.
We get to the restaurant for lunch. It was a very cozy spot right on the beach. It was one of those kinds of places you HAD to know it was there or you would never have found it. After a terrific authentic Mexican lunch, we headed for the return trip home. By now, I was feeling very confident – and my speeds and comfort showed it. We kept a much brisker pace on the return trip. On our first water break – my guide cautioned me – some of the trail would be very tricky and we would be slowing down a bit. He was right – we rode along a cliffs edge – one side granite and limestone the other a 200ft drop to ocean. I would love to go back and stop with a camera – the views were spectacular. I decided to stay up with my guide and to really focus on staying on the trail! (good choice).
We came upon a group of burros. (Do they travel in packs? Herds? Gaggle?). My guide did the same “spray them with loose stuff” and they decided the race was on! So – here we are in pretty much single file – my guide, a burro, me, about 20 burros running balls out. You have heard of dancing with wolves? Me – I race with burros.
We continue on at a brisk clip and I am just grinning from ear to ear. Suddenly, my guide pulls over in the middle of a wide, sweeping right hander that is FULL of the soft stuff. I gear down and try to slow down as I was coming in way too fast for a short stop (and having just scared myself silly by diving the front wheel due to using front brake in a turn). Somehow, I miss first and the bike is in neutral (not a lot of engine braking there). In a state of “controlled panic” I lock up the rear brake and slide perfectly sideways – ending up doing a 180 in the sand. My guide was IMPRESSED – said I did that like a pro! I never admitted that was a sheer panic stop. J
Anyway, the reason for the stop is that he had a flat rear tire! We are at least 30 miles from town and out of cell reception (only later learned he didn’t even have a cell phone with him). I figured ride was over and we should call for help (he didn’t have a tire patch with him either). He assured me – no problem – he could ride it home this way. I explained that he would be up on the pegs leaning forward (put as much of his weight on the front well) and would be going as fast as he could to keep the rear wheel expanded. He said we might get separated – and that I shouldn’t try to keep up and he would stop and wait for me at any place there would be a turn decision.
Well – I surprised myself – I kept out with NO STRESS at all! By now, I was so into it – and it just felt natural (of course – 5 hours of riding you either get comfortable or fall down anyway). So – now we are REALLY flying. I am not entirely sure what top speed of my old Honda is – but I was in 5th gear fully WFO. I flew over a couple of berms – probably got a good 6” of air – I thought I was hot stuff!
All too soon, we made it back to the shop. I was ready to go out and do it all over again! It was truly an epic ride.
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